Blue Ridge Mountains

In those days the best painkiller was ice; it wasn’t addictive and it was particularly effective if you poured some whiskey over it. –George Burns

Civilization begins with distillation. –William Faulkner

If you talk about whiskey with an “e” or whisky without an “e”, I usually align my sipping preferences with the scotch variety of single malt whisky, no “e”. My paternal ancestry was from Scotland, so my tastes are linked to that heritage. Scotch whisky is not typically sweet, and it doesn’t need to be mixed with anything else. A smidgen of water or a cube of ice, if desired. Neat if you prefer. It is a simple, straightforward beverage.

But there is another kind of distinctly American whiskey, with an “e”. And it has its own devoted following.

My friend, Craig, is of this category–a quintessential bourbon whiskey man. He has developed knowledge and interest in this classic American Spirit over decades. We have been friends since he married my best friend from high school exactly one week before my husband and I were married–many moons ago. I drink bourbon sporadically, in fact, only when Craig makes his signature Old Fashioned cocktail. But that happens infrequently because he lives halfway across the country.

In the fall of 2024, as the leaves were turning and the air cooling, we visited Gail and Craig at their weekend mountain home in North Carolina. I asked Craig to talk to me about bourbon–specifically what he likes about it and why. Little did I realize I was about to go down a veritable rabbit hole of whiskey education and information. It started with rounds of varietal bourbon tastings as well as learning the necessity for clear ice cubes as the invisible coolant for his preferred Old Fashioned. I now make clear ice, too, which is beautiful and invisible in my preferred whisky dram.

Craig’s experience with bourbon began in college with a friend who regularly made Old Fashioneds which they enjoyed together socially. His undergraduate degrees in microbiology and chemistry led to an MS degree and a PhD in Food Science. Studying the science of food created a natural interest in fermentation and distillation. When he moved to North Carolina where bourbon drinking is customary, his interest in whiskey culture took off. As his son grew into adulthood, this became a shared exploration and enjoyment.

Bourbon is most often associated with the southern state of Kentucky. It is an American barrel-aged whiskey distilled from a minimum of 51% corn with the rest of the grains (the mash bill) coming from wheat, rye, or barley in varying percentages. After distillation, it is always matured in a new container of charred oak. The barrels are 100% white American oak, charcoal burned on the inside to give the requisite smoky, toasted, caramel, and vanilla flavors from the wood. The average maturation for bourbon is eight years, but it can be more than this, or less. However, over-aging can negatively affect the resulting flavor.

There are no additives in making bourbon except for water to adjust proofing–the arbitrary standard of alcoholic strength of a beverage. Unique to Kentucky’s topography, the water is iron-free and filtered through native limestone. Currently, Kentucky produces 95% of the world’s supply of bourbon whiskey.

The exact history of bourbon is rife with legend. It has been distilled in the U.S. since the 1700s and probably began with Scottish and Scotch-Irish settlers who came to Kentucky as farmers. There is an oft repeated story that Elijah Craig, a Baptist minister, was the first whiskey distiller, but that is not factual. He was known to be the first to age bourbon in charred oak barrels during the 1780s. Today, Elijah Craig Kentucky Bourbon or Rye is one of the top-selling brands in the market, recognized for its quality, boldness and depth, and with many loyal fans.

How did bourbon come to be so named? It might have come about after the Revolutionary War when immigrants began pushing west of the Allegheny Mountains. The Alleghenies, part of the great Appalachian Mountain range on the east coast of the U.S., run in a southwesterly direction from Pennsylvania, through Maryland, Virginia and West Virginia. In 1785, one of the first counties established by land seeking settlers was named Bourbon, in honor of the French royal House of Bourbons (including King Louis XVI) who aided the colonists during their revolt against England. But the name bourbon, referring to the beverage, may not have been in wide use until the 1850s.

In the beginning, bourbon production was centered in rural areas of the south, on small farms and distilleries. As a deterrent to spoilage, excess farming grains were used to make whiskey. With the mighty Ohio River providing transportation, it was easy to move and sell in areas with poor road infrastructure. Whiskey was its own form of currency in frontier times. When bourbon making became commercial in the late 18^th century, both production and quality dramatically increased.

Then in 1919, Prohibition, the amendment to the Constitution prohibiting the manufacture, transport and sale of alcoholic beverages in the United States, devastated the bourbon industry for more than a decade. Illegal bootlegging was common but greatly compromised the quality.

After the repeal of Prohibition in 1933, bourbon culture didn’t pick up again in earnest until decades later. In the 1950s-60s, a cocktail renaissance was influenced by the New York City Madison Avenue advertising world. Classic cocktails, Manhattans and Old Fashioneds, using whiskey as the base, achieved new popularity.

In 1964, an Act of Congress, recognized bourbon as a distinctive product of the United States. Specific legal standards were set up for the industry. One of these was that to be able to label a bottle of whiskey as “bourbon” it must be produced within the 50 States, Washington, DC, or Puerto Rico.

By the 1980s other international cultures began paying closer attention to American whiskies, and today the bourbon brand enjoys global notoriety and a strong market following.

There were several turns in Craig’s career after university graduation. Initially, he worked for Frito Lay Corporation in Dallas, Texas. Then he moved his family to North Carolina. Two colleagues from Frito Lay followed. There they set up and ran their own snack food company, working every aspect of a start-up operation. When that partnership dissolved, Craig founded his own company and became a sought-after consultant across the food industry. He particularly loves new product development and has been designated Chief Innovation Officer for three major food enterprises.

Craig is extremely creative and loves to build things in his workshop. He has designed and made birdhouses, colorful chairs from old skis, tables, chairs and decorative art built from used, dismantled whiskey barrels, lamps with bourbon bottle bases, a large Jenga set with wooden brick-shaped pieces, and an outdoor shower for the mountain home. He plays the guitar and loves the music that was popular when he grew up. His sense of humor is contagious.

When Craig set up our first bourbon tasting session, no detail was left out. He had a set of Glencairn whiskey glasses in a wooden holder. The bottles lined up nearby. We had the added benefit of their infinity deck with a wood burning firepit and views of the Blue Ridge Mountains as backdrop. Perfect ambience.

Our most recent tasting was last summer. The range of bourbons went from mildest to spiciest–from wheat whiskey to malt whiskey to rye. We started with Woodford Reserve Kentucky Straight Wheat Whiskey. With a mash bill of 52% wheat, 20% malt barley, 20% corn and 8% rye, it was a clear light caramel color and had the smoothest taste overall. Woodford Reserve Kentucky Straight Malt Whiskey was next with 51% malt barley, 47% corn and 2% rye. It had some latent spice to it, and a medicinal astringent-like after taste. The rye was Bulleit Bourbon, 68% corn, 28% rye and 4% barley. I found it to be more earthy, less sweet, with a bit of rawness. Some added water softened it. Nice.

What I learned was that corn gives bourbon its sweetness, rye–the spiciness, wheat–the smoothness, barley–the nuttiness. The limestone filtered water of Kentucky impacts its own flavor along with different strains of yeast used in distillation.

In the late afternoons, Craig made his signature PBOF, which affectionately stands for Pawpaw Bair Old Fashioned. Pawpaw is what his grandchildren call him. Bair is his last name. On a regular basis, Craig uses Maker’s Mark*, a wheated bourbon. He likes its smoothness, without any harsh taste or spiciness, and its mid-price range. The distinctive difference between Craig’s PBOF and a classic Old Fashioned is there is no sugar, syrup or sweetener added. Just fruit. Plus, it is slightly diluted with a splash of soda water. Very sip-able and can be enjoyed in multiples with no after effect.

*Note: Maker’s Mark Bourbon Whisky is an exception to the spelling rule–no “e”.

adding fresh orange and bitters over ice

Craig’s Pawpaw Bair Old Fashioned (PBOF)

Lightly muddle (or squeeze) one orange slice (Cara Cara variety preferred when in season) with one pitted Bada Bing cherry (from Tillen Farms by Stonewall Kitchen). Add about one spoonful of cherry juice and two shakes of bitters (any flavor, but spiced cherry is nice). Add a tiny bit of soda water to liquify.
Pour this over a clear square or round ice cube in a cocktail glass. (Any drink is better over clear ice. See End Notes*)
Add two shots of Maker’s Mark Kentucky Straight Bourbon Whisky.
Add a very light pour of additional soda water and stir together.
Enjoy with family or friends on a deck or screened porch with an awesome Appalachian mountain view at sundown.

The light music of whiskey falling into glasses made an agreeable interlude. –James Joyce

late afternoon PBOFs for us and wine for Gail

Recently, I embarked on a “scientific” experiment to determine my own preferred bourbon beverage. Trial-and-error Old Fashioneds, crafted at home, were tested on two friends who don’t drink bourbon but were enthusiastic participants. Then, a nephew in Las Vegas acted as my taste-tester for a weekend. Lastly, our son in California and a bourbon knowledgeable friend in Estes Park made their versions of whiskey cocktails for me.

The first thing I discovered is that I prefer rye whiskey as the base alcohol in a mixed cocktail. I like spicy. Spicy food, spicy taste. Apparently spicy bourbon too. Elijah Craig Toasted Rye is very drinkable and delicious in this category.

Secondly, my home-crafted Old Fashioneds tended to be muddled (or pulverized) with a lot of orange and cherry fruit, plus orange and cherry bitters and some orange sparkling water. There were varying amounts of bourbon (or rye) mixed in, too. These attempts can only be described as muddly-fruit-forward cocktails with a splash of booze and extra chewiness at the end. Tasty to some, but questionable or unacceptable to purists.

While visiting our son, I tried his Manhattan, as he enjoys making them and has all the accouterments. He made one with bourbon and one with rye. Again, rye for me please. Still, I returned home musing that my whisky preference remains without an “e” and distilled across the ocean.

The final bourbon taste trial was with my friend, Jim, who is on top of most things whiskey and whisky. He made his version of a traditional Old Fashioned using a wheat bourbon, (Weller Special Reserve), added locally made ponderosa pine syrup, (Rocky Mountain Mugolio), two different kinds of bitters, and garnished it with a slice of navel orange and one Luxardo brand cherry.

I supplied the invisible two-inch ice cubes.

When we tried the same recipe substituting Basil Hayden Rye Bourbon, I perked up with the noticeably spicier first sip.

In the end, as with most experiments, we conclude what we like. Subjective and idiosyncratic to the person. Summation: there is nothing sacred about any recipe or preference for a cocktail beverage. Whiskey for some. Whisky for others. Just enjoy the ritual.

To Craig, I raise my glass and thank you for opening a new world of knowledge. For patiently answering my questions and repeating what you know enough times for me to get it written down. I love your curiosity about so many things along with your creative carpentry skills–particularly with used whiskey barrels. Bourbon and rye and other topics of conversation over PBOFs on the infinity deck, with background music and some competitive and very loud Jenga games make me thankful for not only having you as my whiskey mentor, but a life-long friend.

*End Note:

There are different ways of making clear ice cubes at home. All of them are a good option for filling drinks with invisible ice which highlights the look of the beverage more than opaque white ice maker ice does.

One source: http://www.icemadeclear.com

It takes regular tap water, some freezing space, and an initial financial investment, but the results are worth it. Use the official company website rather than an Amazon variation.

Adam’s Manhattan (AJUM)

Fill cocktail glass with ice to chill.
Fill cocktail pitcher with ice.
Add 2 shots plus a little more bourbon.
Add 2/3 shot sweet vermouth. (Cocchi brand)
Add 1-2 shakes bitters.
Stir, stir, stir to mix and chill.
Discard ice in glass. Use strainer to pour from pitcher.
Add 1 (or 2) cocktail cherries.

A different story set in the North Carolina Mountains, about my friend Gail, is here: Carolina On My Mind

A story about dueling martini tastes between identical twins is here: Of Twins and ‘Tinis

Whisky from Scotland has its own story here: Scottish Highland Liquid Sunshine

There is something evanescent, temporary and fragile about food. You make it. It goes, and what remains are memories. But these memories of food are very powerful. –Jacques Pépin

It takes a long time to grow an old friend. –John Leonard

These quotes remind me of the last time I visited my friend Gail in the mountains of North Carolina. Gail is my longest “go to” friend. We met at age 16 when my family moved to a small town in Iowa along the Mississippi River. She balances my analytic nature with kindness and consideration toward everyone. She is intuitive and listens like a compassionate counselor. She knows my eccentricities and loves me anyway. When I was undergoing medical treatments and the rest of my family was overseas, she jumped in to help by coming to Colorado and being with me. We laugh easily and know each other’s stories. Even when too much time has passed, there is immediate ease when re-engaging in each other’s lives. Although we don’t share the same blood, she is my sister too.

We didn’t know it at the time we became friends as teenagers but that is when we began living the concept of “growing an old friend”. We were unwavering through the high school years, the university years, summer jobs in the Wisconsin north woods, a western road trip at 21, marriages one week apart, children, and now grandchildren. We haven’t lived near each other for a long time, but we talk on the phone or visit back and forth in our respective states of Colorado and North Carolina as often as we can.

When we were 20, Gail and I worked one summer at a camp for girls on a lake in northern Wisconsin. It was the same year that she introduced me to the man I would marry three years later. She loyally returned from her honeymoon to stand next to me in our wedding one week after I had been a bridesmaid in hers. With husbands, our friendship grew as couples.

The last time I was in North Carolina we spent the entire visit in the Blue Ridge Mountain community of Leatherwood rather than in the city. It was early August and humidly warm in the mountains. Low bluish clouds formed a canopy over and around the green mountains across the valley. It’s a mystical and captivating way to greet each morning. And such contrast to Colorado’s high rocky peaks, golden aspens, and dry mountain air.

The food recollections from that visit are so clear. Gail made a pre-dinner apéro by muddling very ripe peaches in the bottom of a glass then poured Vino Verde [a light Portuguese sparkling white wine] over the top. Along with the wine were appetizers of pickled okra [very southern] and small slices of Manchego cheese. Manchego is a firm sheep’s milk cheese with buttery texture and mild taste. It was a perfect combination. The company, the light food, the ambience.

There was one quirky but memorable cocktail hour involving neighbors who invited us to their home. Burdette, a retired architect, 90 years-old, wanted to prepare his own version of “The World’s Best Martini”. Gail’s husband is a bourbon man and politely declined. But the three women–Gail, her sister, and I agreed to try. There was much ceremony involved in the preparation of glasses, the assembly of ingredients, the shaking of equal parts of vodka, gin, AND vermouth. Only one olive allowed per glass. We sipped. It was okay, but what I appreciated most was their living room Rumford fireplace–a tall, shallow, masonry fireplace of European design. They had added a swinging black pot apparatus to cook soup or stew over the open fire. It seemed romantically retro, but I could see myself sitting by a fire that way.

When in Carolina do as the locals do. Or drink as the locals drink. In many southern states, this means bourbon. Craig, Gail’s husband, is a quintessential bourbon guy. He has his own version of an Old Fashioned. The only time I drink bourbon whiskey is when he makes this for me. A slice of orange, some Bada Bing cherries, two shots of good bourbon, fill with club soda and ice. His daily bourbon is Maker’s Mark. For splurging, he reaches for Jefferson’s Ocean or Woodford’s Reserve to sip over ice.

pickled okra, Gail’s glass of white, Craig’s bourbon old fashioned special

The best meal was something new to me. Shredded beef brisket with a smoky homemade sauce. Cooked long and slow in the oven and served as a main course with side dishes of cornbread, beans, and salad–the epitome of southern cuisine. Perfect for guests and great leftovers.

Each day was full–with morning walks before the heat rose to a crescendo, a side trip to Blowing Rock’s boutique shops, outdoor showers with wide-angle valley views, picnic lunch in a park, and noisy Jenga games ending with blocks crashing to the floor amid cries of “Oh no!” and laughter.

champagne picnic–Craig and Gail, Wendy & Tam

Craig’s handmade jenga set and studying the physics of play

The Carolina mountains have been on my mind recently for a particular reason. Several seasons have passed and now it feels like time to return. To a different climate and different scenery. To those lower, greener hills, and humid misty clouds. To friends who make a difference in my life when we are together and even when we are not.

Jacques Pepin is right about the fleeting nature of food. You make it. It goes. What remains, what is truly powerful, is when we nourish our lives with memories of food in a spectacular setting, in a meal around a table, and taking time to grow the very best of friends.

GAIL’S BEEF BRISKET

Brisket is a tough cut of beef that must be tenderized by long, slow cooking. I adjusted the recipe for high altitude as most food takes longer to cook at 8300 feet where we live. My edits are in parentheses. The secret to this recipe is the sauce. Shredding the cooked brisket rather than slicing it eliminates the fat layer, leaving only the lean.

INGREDIENTS:

5-6 lb brisket [I have used smaller]
Salt and Pepper
Liquid Smoke

Place brisket in baking dish with fat side up. Rub salt and pepper and liquid smoke onto both sides of meat. Cover with foil and seal edges of pan. Marinate 12 hours or overnight in the refrigerator.

pouring liquid smoke over and rubbing with salt & pepper

NEXT DAY:

Preheat oven to 275 degrees F.
Place sealed baking dish in oven for 5 hours.
[Better than timing is to test with a meat thermometer as it will take 2 or more hours longer at higher altitudes. Internal temperature should reach 200 degrees F.]
When meat is tender and done, take two forks and shred onto a serving platter.
Discard the fat layer.
Pour sauce over or serve in a pitcher, on the side.
Serve brisket on buns or as a main course with side dishes.
Leftovers are easily reheated and just as delish.