August is the month when France goes on vacation. In the early 1900s, “La Fermeture Annuelle” was a tradition to provide paid time-off to factory workers. By 1982, laws were passed giving five weeks of paid vacation to all salaried workers.
From late July to the end of August, Paris is quieter, the streets emptier, parking–not a problem. There are still tourists and some businesses remain open. But most small shops and restaurants are closed and shuttered as Parisians head for beaches, country homes, and relaxation elsewhere.
Then comes September and “La Bonne Rentrée”. Schools reopen and summertime is officially over. By the end of the first week of la rentrée, streets and cafés are full again. Curbside parking disappears for another year.
La Rentrée is a time to reconnect with friends, re-establish routines and reacquaint to life in Paris.
One of my favorite returning rituals is to spend a morning at the “Marché aux Puces” at Porte de Vanves. This isn’t the biggest flea market or even the most famous one in Paris. The mega-flea market at Clignancourt, on the northern edge of the city, is where scenes from the movie “Midnight in Paris” were filmed.
I like the smaller venue in the southern 14th Arrondissement. It lines only two streets for half a day on Saturdays and Sundays, year round. There are professional merchants with covered tables and reserved spots. There are others who sell from a blanket spread on the ground. It’s treasure hunting and people watching fun. The crowd is both local and tourist.
When looking for something special, like an antique enamel coffeepot for a story about Swedish egg coffee An Egg in the Coffeepot, I headed to the flea market. At other times, without a particular goal, I have stumbled upon useful items such as porcelain towel bars or heavy glass candleholders or Japanese-occupation pottery plates which we collected in Taiwanese street markets twenty years ago.
Sometimes an excursion is rewarded with a beautiful signed vase or a framed picture for the wall. And sometimes–nothing at all.
Flea markets are recycled decorating or collecting at its best. The volume and range of objects astounds. Even knowing the adage “one man’s trash is another’s treasure”, it’s hard not to be judgmental of some objects on display for sale. Odd, quirky, eccentric, useful, cheap, expensive, collectible, colorful, playful, beautiful, strange, or simply weird. It’s all there for a price. Bargaining is essential, bien sûr.
I go to the Marché aux Puces for entertainment, to see what’s there, to eavesdrop on interactions between shoppers and vendors, to stroll along and muse over oddities with a cup of coffee or vin chaud [in wintertime] from the corner kiosk.
The adventure never disappoints. It’s an annual ritual that reminds me that I’m back home in my favorite city in the world.
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What a lovely welcome back this is for me this morning, Wendy.
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Thanks Wendy – have enjoyed wandering the market with you. Beautiful pics – and lovely prose.
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Gorgeous photography! Perfect choice of adjectives to describe that photography! I surely would enjoy your flea market ritual! Molly
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Wendy, What a fabulous collection of photos and collectibles! It might just mean I have to come back to Paris so that we can explore Le Marche too! I love being able to image you taking your little walk down the street to your local cafe and having your cafe or wine as you people watch and soak up the thinning September sun. Enjoy your fabulous city!
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Patricia, You know how to get here and you know my routines and how to embrace them. Come back anytime!
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I can only reply – “We miss Paris.” OK, we miss you and Mark as well. And the extraordinary joy of exploration, which we have truly experienced only in Paris.
Wonderful photos and a fun read. Thanks.
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Wendy, just back from yard-saling myself, but almost empty handed. My venues weren’t quite as classy as yours! Your pix are stunning. Thank you for the wonderful photo essay. We are headed to CO in 2 weeks. Maybe our friends will take us to your pleasant cafe near Estes :o)
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Linda, Meadow Mountain Cafe in Allenspark. Yes, do go there when in the neighborhood. You will love it.
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Very nice, Wendy! A must-see when, and if, I ever get to visit. Loved the pictures. Several items caught my eye!
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I must say the incredible photos ruled the day in this piece. You should be doing the marketing for the markets! Aaron
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Aaron, You got the point. A fun photo essay for an iconic piece of Paris…
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Even though it’s only been 6 weeks since departing Paris, your latest blog of our quartier makes me so nostalgic. You’ve really captured a typical Sunday stroll through le Marché. Miss you!
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Shirley, It’s too bad we never made that stroll together while you were here. There is a different level of pleasure enjoying the hubbub through a friend’s eyes too…
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A relaxing read of a Friday night. I thought I was at a time of life that divesting myself of “things” was in order, but your post is making me reconsider!
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Betty, I am not in “collecting” mode anymore either. Unless it is something very very special, I simply admire. There is a quote by William Morris I use as my mantra, “Have nothing in your home that you do not know to be useful or believe to be beautiful.”
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A very useful quote–but difficult to live by when memories are also involved…?
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Well, if it is nostalgic piece then it would come under the category of being beautiful even if not very useful…:]
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